Sunday, July 26, 2009

Glistening Beetroot

By popular demand … Chef Nigel Rich’s beetroot recipe

I made this beetroot dish for our Sea & Vines event in June – after four requests for the recipe I got around to writing down the method I learnt from Nigel.

Turn a wild beetroot crop into a deeply glistening jewel.

Peel and slice the beetroot, quite thin, we use a Mandolin. Line a baking dish with greaseproof paper, paint on a film of clarified butter and then layer the slices, overlapping about half of the next slice (dish size choose one that snugly fits a handy weight – I often use a square tin and bread board topped off with a brick to serve in squares, or I made one cake-round and served in wedges that looked great too). The first layer is the most important as when you invert it will be the top, aesthetics are important so let your artistic flare go here, alternate direction of layers creating interesting texture throughout, subtle finesse. The mouthwatering dressing between every layer is made of freshly grated orange zest and zingy pomegranate molasses, quantities are up to your own taste this is all about drizzling and sprinkling with flourish – zest the orange skin very finely and keep moist in the juice, ground black pepper, salt flakes, pomegranate molasses (there are lots of different brands, Nigel’s favourite is Alwadi) and clarified butter (just a drizzle).

Layer to the height you like keeping in mind this will be pressed overnight. Top with baking paper and tightly wrap with foil. Bake in the oven, around 180 degrees for several hours (depends on how old the beetroot is). When the fabulous aroma of baked beetroot arrives it is time to check, looking for the stunning juices to be released, oozing and luscious. The final check for readiness is texture, use a skewer or knife to feel for softness but retaining form. When cooked let cool before weighting and refrigerate overnight. Next day turn it out and serve whole or sliced into squares, wedges etc. A topping of goat curd and fresh herbs is good, or crushed pistachio nuts and drizzle of pistachio oil. Let me know your variations and suggestions.

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Winter Rain & Rabbits Can Swim

Rain on the tin roof crowding out climate change.
White clouds hugged Willunga Hills, while Huey sent her down in sheets.
Today the rain is exceptional, beautiful, more beautiful than any other time following three years of drought and heatwaves and that nagging fear that the rain may never come again.

Our creek is flowing for the first time in four years. The sound of water gushing down the creek and into the dam with frogs calling is the most delicious lifegiving music I could imagine.
I followed the creek today, as if I don't know where it comes from, stood on the bridge and watched the brown water gush over rocks, under tree roots and on down to the dam.

I scared a rabbit, in his rabbit-like panic he tacked back and forth then plonked into the creek.
Frantic dog paddling began, he bumped into the bank and scrambled up the other side.
I didn't know rabbits could swim. All animals can swim if they have to, can't they? Instinctively paddling for survival. But not all humans. Perhaps they think too much.

Friday, July 3, 2009

oil press

Our Olive Harvest is nearly finished. One more old Verdale heavy with fruit waits for the pick.

There are still some cherry pink Manzanillo and sleek black plump Kalamatas hanging on for pickling.

Oil harvest is a gentle time. Making fresh bread is essential, dipping into the fresh pressed pungent oil while it is still warm from the oven. Every drop of this season's press is mouthwateringly delicious, we drink it.

We'd like to congratulate ourselves on good farming, picking the fruit at the right time and getting it to the press gently and quickly, for pressing in our well maintained Olio Mio with precision learnt through years of patience and practice. However the truth is that this delicious drop of oil is more about the growing season. The one element we play no part in.

The timing has a major influence on the style and quality of oil, so just prior to harvest we spend a lot of time in the grove plucking the fruit from each tree, gently crushing the fruit in our hands to release the juice, inhale the deep olive aroma and rub the oil into our skin, this to check flavour ripeness and oil content. The window for perfect ripeness is down to a few weeks in the year. The oil flavour of any variety can be completely changed by harvesting green through to fully ripe producing distinctly different styles. When all things are equal there are strong genetic varietal characteristics.

As with all farming we are at the mercy of wind, rain and sun.

Having successfully tended the grove to provide a crop we handle with care, press to perfection and then it is all about storage. Keeping the precious extra virgin oil away from oxygen, heat and light.